SUGGESTED BY OLIVIA: CHARLES BAUDELAIRE

 

The Cat

Come, superb cat, to my amorous heart;
Hold back the talons of your paws,
Let me gaze into your beautiful eyes
Of metal and agate.

When my fingers leisurely caress you,
Your head and your elastic back,
And when my hand tingles with the pleasure
Of feeling your electric body,

In spirit I see my woman. Her gaze
Like your own, amiable beast,
Profound and cold, cuts and cleaves like a dart,

And, from her head down to her feet,
A subtle air, a dangerous perfume
Floats about her dusky body.

Author : Olivia Lewit

INK/IT: MATTEO CIAMPI

 

Introduction: INK/IT is a selection of Italian tattooers working in Italy or around the world and foreign tattoo artists that love coming to Italy to work and enjoy la dolce vita. Every week Marco Annunziata will write about the best tattooers around… So pick up your favorite one and go get inked!

Matteo Ciampi is an old fashioned tattooer. He started tattooing at the age of 13 with a machine that he made with parts of a record player, a Bic pen and a spoon. At the beginning it was just a big passion but later while hanging out at Leonardo Giusti’s parlour and after an encounter with Christian di Costanzo, he decided to become a real tattooer. Mattia Lotti that used to ink Matteo and is still one of his favorite artists, gave him precious advices to go on, so he traveled around Europe to join conventions and worked for a while with Michele Vodola at Burra Tinta.  Since 2010 he is the proud owner of Segnistrani Tatuaggi, a tattoo parlour in Montelupo Fiorentino which is  a tiny village near Florence known as one of the most important centers of pottery production of the Rinascimento. At Segnistrani you can get traditional style tattoos and custom tattoos designed by the expert hand of Leonardo Borri. Two interesting curiosities about the shop: the master Maurizio Fiorini was born there when the building was a house and not a Tattoo Studio and you can sit on one of the chairs owned by Marco Cerretelli before he moved and made it America.

 

http://www.segnistrani.com/

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Author : Marco Annunziata

THE INSATIABLE FASCINATION WITH THE UNUSUAL: DIANE ARBUS

Winter in Paris is like autumn in New York. It’s in those grey tones of clouds that you feel the French touch, the vie en rose, the delightful and tasty flavour of a macaron, or of a butter croissant with an espresso coffee, served at Fauchon’s. It’s in those night lights, those high heeled shoes, those sales that make you go crazy, boulevards, love spreading, Colette’s, the golden Jeanne of Arc statue, the Concorde square and those infinite, sublime, roof tops from where the Tour Eiffel can be viewed in all its beauty. Paris is a beating heart, a revolutionary creature, fed by what’s chic and à la mode. As I was wandering in the city centre, waiting for the beginning of the haute couture week, walking and talking in Rue Saint-Honoré, it came to my mind that last time I was in Paris I had the chance to visit the Lee Miller exhibit at the Jeau de Paume. As I was close to it, I decided to go and see what was on. I then crossed the road, made my way to Rue de Rivoli, entered the Jardis de Teulieries and saw those amazing two words: Diane Arbus. Saturday, lunch time, a spare few hours, and there I was, ready, with craving eyes.

As a key figure in the history of the 20th century art, Diane Arbus’s exhibition offered more than 200 pictures drawn from private collections and museum; an itinerary along which the spectator is stroke by powerful images accompanied only by the artist’s own titles so to create a real personal and subjective experience. I realized, Diane Arbus’ work remains problematic for many viewers. This amazingly talented artist transgressed the traditional boundaries of portraiture, making pictures of circus and sideshow freaks, many of whom she formed lasting friendships with. She also killed herself, at aged 48, on 26 July 1971. So now, on the 40th anniversary of her death, I thought it was also worth reconsidering her artistic legacy. She undoubtedly felt at ease among the outsiders she photographed. She also seem to experienced a frisson of guilty pleasure when photographing them, you also feel it in many shots with naked individuals or street scenes. Her works make the viewer question not just the reasons for looking people who are pathetic, pitiable, as well as repulsive, but also our own. Arbus’ black and white portraits particularly of those with mental disabilities or physical abnormalities, retain their power to unsettle and disturb the viewer. Whatever the intention was, the cruel often seems to outweigh the tender. With Diane Arbus, as with Nan Goldin, the life and the art are inextricably intertwined. Arbus seemed a great humanist photographer who foresaw a new kind of photographic art. An ‘avantguardiste’, I’d say. She certainly was a trailblazer of a new photographic aesthetic. Raw and unflinching, disturbing and illuminating, pessimistic and narcissistic. Arbus may have felt an enormous empathy with the people she photographed, even if she was not part of them, and however she identified with their outsider status of being. She had her own troubles, but they were of a different order. The work she left is powerful not just because of its dark beauty or its stark vision, but because it asks questions of the viewer about the limits of looking, about the predatory nature of photography, and about our complicity in all of this.

When we look at one of her images, we cannot help feeling that we are intruders or voyeurs, even though her subjects are in a time and place that has vanished. There is a high sense of complicity because the images hold the viewer in a sway. This is her power: she understood the instinctive conflict and did more than anyone to exploit it artistically.

One of the best exhibition ever seen.

 DIANE ARBUS

Until February the 5th 2012 – Jeu de Paume, Place de la Concorde – Paris

http://www.jeudepaume.org/

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Author : Isabella Cecconi

THE QUICK ONE: THIS IS DORIAN

 

 

 Who are you? Where do you come from and what do you do?

My name is Dorian and I’m living in Milan since ten years even though I’m originally  from Liguria where I lived untill the end of high school. I’m into underground music and  its daily effect over humans through DJ-sets, events management, promoting gigs of international bands, parties and soundtracks for happenings. I’m resident dj at celebrated PLASTIC, the last of the famous international Club. At the moment I’m involved in a new video-art project: MALIBU 1992, which has been already featured in the latest shows in Paris of big international fashion designers like Bernhard Wilhelm and Donatella Versace.

How did you start your job?

I always felt some kind of attraction for music and English culture in particular: my father had a remarkable vinyl collection from the Sixties, which I got lots of inspiration from, dazing myself of Merseybeat sounds, garage, rock’n'roll, also devoting my attention to some major icons of those days from Dusty Springfield to Sandy Shaw, not to miss out Elton John, Rod Stewart, Boy George and Pet Shop Boys which definitely moved my range of interest and affinity over the underground subcultures and imaginary. This is the reason why I’m in this kind of work at the present time.

Who is your style icon?

I’ve been influenced by various people especially as an adolescent when the wave of cool Britannia knocked me down with the style of Jarvis Cocker and Damon Albarn. Currently my style icon is Albert Redwine, an American musician belonging to a new trend called sea-punk.

What Are you wearing right now?

In this precise moment I’m wearing a cream-colored interweaved sweater made in Scotland, skinny vintage Wrangler jeans and dark-brown Dr. Martens from the late 80s when they were still making them in the UK.

What do you enjoy most in life? Any hobbies?

I love traveling as soon as I have some spare time. I’m fine visiting every kind of place, what matters is breaking-out. I’m fond of classic art and medieval history as well. I think I’m lucky given that my hobbies have become my job.

If you could have been the writer of a famous song, which one would it be?

Don’t Worry Baby by The Beach Boys.

What makes you laugh?

Movies from and independent label in splatter  B-movies: TROMA VIDEO. My personal favorite is “Terror Firmer”.

Which and where is your favorite restaurant?

One among the many guest-houses scattered in between the hills of Val d’Orcia in Tuscany and the Botin restaurant in Madrid since 1725 where you can taste the best cocchinillo asado. And for a romantic dinner cuddled by the waves I’d go at The Dhow restaurant in Dubai.

Who would you like to work with?

Madonna

Could you please make a playlist for me?

Grimes – Vanessa
Fire For Effect – Yr So Wet
Kreayshawn – Gucci Gucci ( Rock-it! Scientists rmx)
Dominique Young Unique – Stupid Pretty
Naomi Elizabeth – I’d Hit It
Sandy Shaw – There’s lways something there to remind me
Leila K – Open Sesame
Willow feat Nicki Minaj – Fireball
The Twins – Ballet dancer
Elvis Presley – Fun in Acapulco….and you can also listen to my new project Malibu 1992.

 
http://malibu1992.tumblr.com/
 
dandygoth@hotmail.com
 
 

Author : Angela Biani

LES OBJETS SINGUILIER

Les Objets Singulier  is a project curated by Emanuela Nobile Mino which consists of two exhibitions explicitly conceived for AltaRoma/AltaModa January 2012 venue. The exhibitions will open simultaneously on Saturday 28th January 2012 and  both will present “ singular objects ”, unique pieces or limited editions, all conceived by the authors invited as wearable objects. The title of the project is inspired by the book “Les objets singuliers”  in which philosopher Jean Baudrillard and architect Jean Nouvel discuss about the “singularity ”. In the book, the dialogue between the two figures produces a reflection that involves all contemporary semantic categories (from architecture to art) and, by analyzing the saturate and over-aestheticized reality that surrounds us, tries to highlight all those elements that, due to their conformation or their finality can be defined remarkable. The exhibitions present some valid great points on the “ singularity ” topic derived today from different contexts such as design, fashion and art and  reflects on what seems to be a common claim to both designers and artists today: creating objects of desire.

Galleria Ugo Ferranti + Galleria O – Rome

Opening 28th January 2012 from 4 p.m. onwards

Photo: Konstantin Grcic cappa suit for Brioni

Author : Redazione

ARTISANAL INTELLIGENCE GALLERY, THE FAB 3 UPCOMING EVENTS

During Rome’s Fashion Week,  from 28 to January 30, A.I.  Gallery proposes three events focused on  the existing relationship between art,  handicraft practices and fashion. The never ending crisis and economic conjunctures have stimulated artists, artisans, stylists and performers to come back to work with a new spirit and a mutated attitude. The result is a new territory suspended among innovation, tradition, experiment. An itinerary that starts with Davide Dormino’s installation at Muga Gallery of Via Giulia and continues at Motelsalieri  with Carol Christian Poell‘s new collection.  Poell who is quite out of the fashion system and never predictable,  will play with an unusual ensamble of suits, accessories, art and music to transform the shop into a work of art. The itinerary will end with “ The Diamond Pattern”  an event curated by BOMBA41.  Store, gallery, multitasking space, BOMBA41 was born as natural evolution of the historical space owned by Cristina Bomba.  Caterina Nelli, Julia Frommel and Emiliano Maggi, the three creative minds behind BOMBA41, will sew and invite the public to sew in order to pursue the creation of an unique fabric, a symbol of the cycle of  life. The fragments of this mosaic of cloth, the “diamond pattern” that froms the title to the performance, are crops of unique pieces collected by  Cristina Bomba during 30 years of career.

A.I- GALLERY PROGRAM

Saturday 28th January  – Davide Dormino,  L’origine della trama

Galleria Muga – Via Giulia 108/109  Rome –  from 11 a.m. till 8 p.m.

 

Sunday  29th  January – Inedito: Carol Christian Poell

Motelsalieri – Via Giovanni Lanza 162 Rome- from 4 p.m. till 9 p.m.

 

Monday  30 Janaury  – The Diamond Pattern, ora et labora

Bomba41 – Via dell’Oca 39 Rome - from 4 p.m. till 9 p.m.

Photo above : Inedito by Carol Christian Poell

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Author : Redazione

SUGGESTED BY OLIVIA: ARNA BONTEMPS

Length of Moon by Arna Bontemps
Then the golden hour
Will tick its last
And the flame will go down in the flower.
A briefer length of moon
Will mark the sea-line and the yellow dune.
Then we may think of this, yet
There will be something forgotten
And something we should forget.
It will be like all things we know: .
A stone will fail; a rose is sure to go.
It will be quiet then and we may stay Long at the picket gate
But there will be less to say.

Author : Olivia Lewit

STARRED – CEMETERY/MACHINE

STARRED “Cemetery/Machine” Video

Author : Maxim Deluxe

SARAH BURTON’S JOURNEY THROUGH LINGERIE AT ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

I’ve recently had the chance to analyze the complex evolution of Alexander McQueen‘s work, just to realize his creative process, starting from sources of inspiration and the world he lived in, was absolutely incredible and unique. When he died, on February 11, 2011, he left a void which is not only creative, but above all cultural. In present times, with the world drowning into economic crisis, loss of beliefs and no future perspective, his absence is probably another reason of sadness and dejection. Despite this, the fashion house he founded in 2001 is still producing beautiful creations, through which his legacy lives on. Sarah Burton, appointed creative director in May 2010, has done her own thing, without even trying to compete with the memory of her predecessor.
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Author : Teresa Cannatà

DIRTY OLD TOWN

 

If you are in New York and you walk down Houston Street towards the Bowery, I’m sure your attention will be catch by Billy’s Antiques and Props, a shop within a tent which is a throwback to another New York. Billy’s Antiques is a Lower East Side institution and Billy Leroy, the shop owner-biker, is a truly downtown legend. No surprise that filmmakers Daniel B. Levin, Jenner Furst and Julia Willoughby Nason were fascinated by this man, his shop and all the stories which gravitated around it. The directors first considered making a documentary about Leroy. But the more time they spent in his shop, the more they wanted to write their own story developing a narrative that imagines the end of the shop has finally come.  ”It was more exciting to think of it in terms of a narrative,” says Furst. “This tent became sort of a playground, a canvas for something fictional.” 

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Author : Federica Mascagni

SONIA BOYAJIAN, THE NEW GENERATION JEWELLERY

Here at Elitism we love Jewels. They bright up our page and make us feel beautiful. Sonia Boyajian is a new generation jeweler with a certain “pizzaz” and she  presented us  her Spring Summer 2012 collection called “The Beginnings”. It’s a  solid  ensamble of creations made of 22 karat gold, bronze, silver, glass, semi precious stones, ceramic, silk, onyx, resin, dried flowers, as well as sculpted porcelain figurines made by French Artist Sylvie Auvrey. It’s a journey into past societies and movements, it’s a collection that takes inspirations from the primitive and the opulent. It can be Egyptian, it can be Bizantine.  It’s  brisk and the style is unique.

Sonia Boyajian was born in California and majored in Fine Arts before graduating from Otis College of Art and Design with a degree in fashion. Young and attracted by adventure,   she moved to Antwerp and started working under the wing of  famous jeweller Pascal Masselis. In few years she not only learnt how to work metals and stones but was  also noticed by Bernhard Williehm who appointed her to create jewels for his Paris Fashion Shows.  At the age of 23 Sonia went back to Los Angeles and settled up her Studio from where she now sells to clients and selected boutiques all over the world.

W magazine has defined her an “explosive mix of surrealism that remembers Elsa Schiapparelli”. She declares to be inspired by Romanian artist Constantin Brancusi and Calder. She is an artist that found in shining metals and stones  her way to express herself.  Needless to say, Elitism was  in love with her at first sight.

Photo above : Oyster Necklace, handmade chain with discs

http://soniabstyle.com/

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Author : Marco Maggetto

A.I. FAIR 2012 @ TEMPIO DI ADRIANO IN PARTNERSHIP WITH ELITISM

Craftsmanship is fashionable. This is the current expression of made in Italy: the medium of a new idea of luxury suspended between history and unparalleled uniqueness. In collaboration with Palazzo dei Congressi and CNA, Altaroma will present A.I. Fair, an event entirely dedicated to artisans – virtuosos of tradition and key players on the stage of contemporary trends. Stemming from the natural evolution of the A.I (Artisanal Intelligence) project – already
featured in a blog, a magazine and a series of events dedicated to the marriage between fashion design, craftsmanship and contemporary art ‐ A.I. Fair serves as an opportunity to personally meet more than 80 creative designers in the trendy, informal atmosphere of a “market” which, in the future, is likely to be transformed into a real fair. Wood, metals, jewellery, ceramics… top‐level craftsmanship and self‐made design – a perfect high note on which to end Altaroma fashion week. The event will be divided up into three different moments and will be hosted in three different areas of Palazzo dei Congressi: opening time 6.00pm at Salone della Cultura with exhibits by the artisans; 8.30pm: Anything else a performance conceived by artist Marco Dalbosco will be held on the occasion of A.I. Fair in the ambulacro sinistro; 10.00pm end‐of event party.

http://www.altaroma.it/ai/

Author : Redazione

GEORGE CONDO

George Condo has been a singular voice in American and European art for almost three decades. Born in 1957 in New Hampshire, he studied art history and music theory then moved to New York, where he quickly became part of the burgeoning East Village art scene of the 80’s. He became close friends with artists like Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Condo developed a unique painting style, employing the virtuoso draftsmanship and paint handling of the old masters. In the context of early 1980s, Condo’s paintings displayed provocative scenes, where he adopted a peculiar style, technique, and method of earlier painters and applied them to subjects. He explored an astonishing variety of aesthetic territories, from Mannerist to Picasso-esque Cubism, drawing from Diego Velázquez to Looney Tunes. Possessed of an enormous memory bank of art history, Condo synthesized these past pictorial languages and motifs to create an artwork of psychological states. He’s prolific and has produced an enormous body of work since the beginning of the 1980s. Portraiture, that seems to reflect the madness of everyday life is his main theme. As a contemporary painter of incredible talent and technique, he’s never hit the starry heights. His position during the 80’s was against the common flowing vague. He was an outsider, taking up Old Masters and learning their methods. Recently he has join ventured Hip Hop singer Kanye West creating his album cover. My beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy.

Enjoy

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Author : JeanLuc Ciquot

BE MY BABY: KODAK BROWNIE

Do you remember those happy songs by the Ronettes?Those songs about love and broken hearted affairs? Or those wonderful tunes during a summer camp? When parents were away and all you had was the chill of a first summer kiss or a Colorama image in your head? The idea of holiday, happiness, lightness. Oh well those fantastic dancing days are back. Just to let you know. While browsing in my mother’s closet, (an action uneasy to avoid for a busybody like me and for a chichi frou frou mother like mine..) I found out this precious jewel. I remember a picture of hers, where she was about 15 with this camera in her hands, a lake in the horizon and her cheering face. A Magnificent Kodak Brownie. That’s what it is. Call it Chiquita, or Holiday or Bullet Brownie. It’s a Kodak camera, and it’s tiny and delicious like a real brownie.Manifactured in Brasil and the Us between 1953 and 1964, this darling camera was extremely popular back in the days. Made out of Bakelite it took 127 size film. With a moulded black plastic body with white, cream, or grayish controls, depending on the model you would chose.A fun fact I discovered is that some Kodak cameras, like the Brownie Bullet for instance, were described as “premium”. These were cameras that were not normal retail items, but used for promotional purposes often by third-party companies to encourage customers to take advantage of their goods or services. This shows marketing genius on Kodak’s part. A third-party company benefits by selling their own product, the customer gets a free camera, and Kodak gains a new customer that will buy their film and process it! Pretty genius, weren’t they?You eat Campbell soup, you get a camera, and so on.. 
Arthur Hunt Crapsey, Jr designed the Kodak Brownie, from which the Brownie Bullet was later copied. The Brownie Holiday was a small, simple viewfinder camera, also available as the Brownie Holiday Flash – with flash synchronization. It had an easy shutter button and film advance knob which were the only things that broke its sleek lines. It sported a fixed focus lens and took eight pictures, it was a pretty basic point and shoot tool. There were no controls other than clicking the shutter. It was small and had a nice frame size. The shutter sounded slow but the pictures seemed sharp, as much as I can tell with all the grain from the expired film…

The “Holiday” was meant to take on holiday, I guess. And so was I… 

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Author : Isabella Cecconi

THE QUICK ONE: THE SUPER COOL GUIDO PELLEGRINI

 

Introduction:

The Quick One is a weekly interview curated by Angela Biani. It will consist in a bunch of easy questions made to fashion- related persons. Fast and illuminating as Angela herself, this 4 minutes readings will drive you closer to an iconoclast . Here is the very first ” Quick One” on  Guido Pellegrini.

Who are you? Where do you come from and what do you do?

My name is Guido Pellegrini, I come from Parma where I started my fashion career and became a stylist in the 70s.

How did you start your job?

In the 60s I left Parma and moved to London in order to be part of the “new wave”  in fashion, music and lifestyle. Fashion captured my attention and once back to Italy I started my path in the fashion field.

Who/What has mostly influenced your style?

London’s style, as I said before, but also the freedom and possibility to create my first label called “Martin Guy”. In this way I started to put into reality my
researches in costumes and way of living all over the world. I had been always inspired by simple elements and good taste, these two things are important if you want to create something great to cover the human body. This is my biggest  influence.

If you had not been a designer who would you be?

A singer, maybe Leonard Cohen.

What were you like as a kid?

I was going around,  trying to be part of the movement, giving a look around.

Who would you like to be  seated at your table?

No one or a lot of nice people.

Do you collect anything particular?

Hats, sunglasses, walking sticks.

In which historical period you would like to live if you could choose it?

In the beginning of the 20th century.

Your favorite song?

Volare by Domenico Modugno.

Could you please make me a list of the places in the world I should visit?

Ampi in India, Vancouver in Canada, Tangeri in Marocco, Korciula in Croazia, Cabo San Lucas Baja California, Galle in Shri Lanca and all the world out there. There  is beauty.

http://guidopellegrini.com/

 

Author : Angela Biani

SPON DIOGO WINS 2012 MAX FACTOR NEW TALENT AWARD

Copenhagen Fashion Week and its top sponsor Max Factor, the fashion industry’s leader in supporting young design talent, proudly announce SPON DIOGO as their winner.   Selected by a highly esteemed jury and over one hundred thousand on-line public votes, following last year’s prize nomination, this year Spon Diogo takes home the prestigious Max Factor New Talent Award 2012. Mia Lisa Spon and Rui Andersen Diogo Rodrigues, the dynamic design duo behind SPON DIOGO, launched their namesake label in 2008 and have since quickly gained both local and international acclaim with their signature style of sleek, architectural, graphic designs that are instantly recognisable with urban yet organic forms. Keep an eye, or two, on them.

http://www.spondiogo.com/

Photo above:  pointed shoulders black dress from Spring Summer 2008 collection.

 

 

Author : Redazione

BETH JEANS HOUGHTON & THE HOOVES OF DESTINY – LILIPUTT

BETH JEANS HOUGHTON & THE HOOVES OF DESTINY – LILIPUTT (Official Video) )

Author : Maxim Deluxe

MOONRISE KINGDOM

The trailer for  Wes Anderson’s latest movie, Moonrise Kingdom, is finally on line.  Starring Bruce Willis, Edward Norton, Bill Murray, Jason Schwartzman, Frances McDormand, Tilda Swinton, Jared Gilman and Kara Hayward, the film follows a pair of 12-year-old lovers as they flee their New England town in 1965.

Release is set for May, 2012.

You can watch the trailer below.

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Author : Federica Mascagni

BIANCHI BY GUCCI BICYCLES

Gucci and Bianchi are proud to unveil the exclusive Bianchi by Gucci bicycles designed by Gucci Creative Director Frida Giannini. This new collaboration joins two uniquely Italian traditions of design and craftsmanship, from leaders in their respective industries.

The Bianchi by Gucci is available in two models, both with Gucci’s signature green-red-green web stripe. The white hydro-formed steel single-speed bike is ideal to move in the city with elegance. The frame features customized leather grips and saddle as well as Gucci detailing. The matt black carbon fiber monocoque model is an urban/off-road bike with carbon fork and disc brakes. It is the perfect model for a weekend getaway, fit for riding both in the city and in the countryside. Giannini has also designed a series of accessories to complement the bicycles, including a helmet, gloves and a water bottle.

The Bianchi by Gucci is available at select Gucci boutiques worldwide: Rome, Milan, Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Honolulu, Chevy Chase, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Seoul, and Singapore. The Bianchi by Gucci models will also be showcased in Stockholm at the Bianchi Cafè&Cycles.

http://www.gucci.com

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Author : Valentina Matelli

SUGGESTED BY OLIVIA: THOMAS HARDY

 

“Between Us Now” 

Between us now and here -

Two thrown together

Who are not wont to wear

Life’s flushest feather -

Who see the scenes slide past,

The daytimes dimming fast,

Let there be truth at last,

Even if despair.

So thoroughly and long

Have you now known me,

So real in faith and strong

Have I now shown me,

That nothing needs disguise

Further in any wise,

Or asks or justifies

A guarded tongue.

 Face unto face, then, say,

Eyes mine own meeting,

Is your heart far away,

Or with mine beating?

When false things are brought low,

And swift things have grown slow,

Feigning like froth shall go,

Faith be for aye.

 

 

Author : Olivia Lewit

WORDS FROM THE 81 PITTI DIARIES part II

And then it began, and then Palazzo Corsini vibrated with triumph.

Back to Florence, back to that place where everything began. It was 1962, the beginning of the glorious tradition where shapes were slick, where men were perfectly modernist n view and clear and clean in their outfits, where lines were obviously simple and perfect. Back to those sharp silhouettes, those elegant forms. The timeless beauty of Valentino’s creations are this very time being updated with a contemporary process of restyling. The innovative stylistic language declares that weight leaves and the unecessary is eliminated. This happens with a rebelliously act against the rules of apparent normalcy. Materials are precious and compact and accessories are soft and precise. Colors are from stone to gray, to metal.Tuxedos are the hedonistic remembrance of Rome and the Dolce Vita years.

There will always be just one big V and no, it’s not for Vendetta, it’s obviously for Valentino.

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Author : Isabella Cecconi

GAZZARRINI SPRING SUMMER 2012

Gazzarrini‘s Spring Summer 2012 collection owns a romantic mood and it’s mainly inspired by  the art of travelling. Discovering new places and absorbing new cultures plays a big part in this collection that seems to trace new lines in the chapter of “soft urban sportswear”. Nothing is really casual  for the Gazzarini men, but nothing is really “stiffed” too. Elegant, relaxed, fresh  and never dull, the Gazzarrini approach to the male universe is politely modern. The silhouette is shaped with slim jackets and trousers that are convex and soft. The focus point is, indeed, not only in marvellous details, of whom the collection is full, but above all into legs.  The colour palette is something also reamarkable: cottons and linens are composed of nuances.  Bamboo, rope, “whisper”, white, birch tree, pumice, yellow and Ceylon that are dye by hand. Marco Ciampalini, artistic director at Gazzarini  visualizes a modern man in search of identity and dedicate his collection  to those that doesn’t want to be nor casual nor too ”classic”. For me, for you, for the modern thinker, for the “Boho 2.0″, for the next door guy. Not too much is better.

http://www.gazzarrini.eu/

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Author : Marco Maggetto

NOW @ ALASKA PROJECTS SIDNEY

Author : Redazione

WORDS FROM THE 81 PITTI DIARIES

 

A  two trolleys luggage, a handbag and a clutch. Two mobile phones, my laptop and a Nikon camera. This is mostly what’s been prepared and carried on train for my three days of staying at the Pitti Immagine Uomo week. It’s number 81 this year’s first edition. I can say that I could stay here for a month or so considering all the outfits I brought with me. I never have enough of Florence and Tuscany, I must admit. This is my day two in here then, writing from the press room. I’ve seen many faces, fashionistas, cool hunters, journalists, party crashers, chance meetings, flying pigs and good to do nothing strollers. The circus mixes and melts with real workers and stakeholders. I’ve met our Altaroma beloved fellows, went to Emiliano Laszlo‘s aperitif at Ducci’s, went to the Vogue L’Uomo party, attended one of Mustafa Sabbagh‘s photo shootings. I’ve gone through all the stands and I’ve seen new and old styles. Moustaches, haircuts, clothes, men, men, men everywhere. I’m surrounded by men. This is sooo fair. The Pitti Immagine Edition is a sharp gate into the world of fashion and couture, style and egocentrism. a thick or thin line of happiness of the winter season. It’s a chance to see friends from far away. Or to meet people we have the possibility to see just twice a year, just for the summer and winter editions. It’s a getting-to-know situation, where you stay with those you happen to be with, not those you choose to be with. It’s maybe the season’s falling apart or maybe the idea of spring coming or the fact that there’s less time for a summer’s waiting. There’s joy. Not the summerish joy, but the sun shines high and it’s not so cold. Still there’s a conscious feeling of body reneiassance, it’s in the wool we are wearing or the music I am listening to, while maybe replacing back the Christmas tree or the new year’s beginning atmosphere. I actually don’t know. It’s the season of freeze,of jackets, of scarves and hats and yes, we are blocked before blooming, but cozy and warm, wrapped with clothes and coats. Elitism is here then, ready to stare at this changes and write about it. We have our eyes wide open. Last but not least the first 2012-2013 Valentino men’s collection. I’m so looking forward to attend the show. At 7.30 pm, today. And yes, I’ll wear high heels, and yes, I’ll feel like one of the Supremes.

Stay tuned, the catwalk is on and I’m licking my paws..

Photo : Collier Schorr, Two Shirts, 1998-2003

 

Author : Isabella Cecconi

A BRIGHT FUTURE

Only God knows why I’m starting the new year with a photo of Charlotte Casiraghi. I loved this portrait by Mario Testino and it’s a marvellous image of a young woman looking brightly into the future. With a 2012 opening up with insecurities, a “famous” calendar that is ending, a “huge” change coming (are ufos finally appearing and offering us a beer ?), the Stock Market permanently going clubbing yet waking up in hangover….what should we do if not searching for a positive  future into a young beautiful girl’s eyes? It is of a certain relief to see there is still beauty in normality: this girl is a radiant example and it won’t be that difficult to be stylish and fresh like her  in 2012. Just switch off all the news applications, watch less TV, read more books about happy times and buy yourself something cute – it doesn’t matter if it’s in Bergdorf or in Zara. Don’t stop refreshing your look and your mind. Don’t stop supporting who is less fortunate and don’t forget to be good. Smile as often as possible, get all the love you can grab. Same old resolutions? Maybe, but it’s good to remind them. The world, afterall, will be spinning for other 365 days. Lady Gaga will be out with a new record and she will look uglier than ever. You will buy another pair of silly shoes you don’t really need. You will probably get tired of electric blue.  The world will be going on and we will too. Under the modern incon’s glance, only a beautiful future can exist.

Author : Marco Maggetto

JONAS MEKAS: SLEEPLESS NIGHTS STORIES

 

In Sleepless Nights Stories we stroll with Jonas Mekas through New York nights, through apartments, studios, backstage rooms, galleries, bars and clubs. Mekas, who suffers from chronic insomnia, creates a deeply personal visual diary, recollecting stories from his sleepless one thousand and one nights. He keeps late-night company with old and new friends who have the gift of gab, their imaginations sometimes fired up by wine and music. We meet old pals like Ken and Flo Jacobs, Yoko Ono, Patti Smith, Carolee Schneemann, Marina Abramovic, Hans Ulrich Obrist, Harmony Korine, together with brothers and sisters, sons and daughters.

“SLEEPLESS NIGHTS STORIES originated from my readings of the One Thousand and One Nights”- says Mr. Mekas- But unlike the Arabian tales, my stories are all from real life, though at times they too wander into somewhere else, beyond the everyday routine reality. There are some twenty-five different stories in my movie. Their protagonists are all my good friends and I myself am an inseparable part of the stories. The storyteller of the Arabian Nights was also part of his or her tales. Some of the people in the movie you’ll recognize, some not. The fact that some of them you’ll recognize has no bearing on the stories: after all, we all recognize John Wayne or Annette Bening, but in their stories they are no longer the people we know. The subjects of the stories cover a wide range of emotions, geographies, personal anxieties, anecdotes. These are not very big stories, not for the Big Screen: these are all personal big stories… And yes, you’ll also find some provocations… But that’s me, one “me” of many. The very question What is a story? is a provocative question”.  

The movie is a new gift from one of the greatest avant-garde filmmakers of all times, an artist, a poet, an intellectual. Mekas, who just turned 89, once said: “I make home movies, therefore I live”. There’s no doubt that once again, viewing the world through a camera, he shows us how to be alive,  catching the sweep (and beauty) of life.

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Author : Federica Mascagni

KINFOLK BICYCLE CO.

We like Kinfolk Bicycles because we saw Kusakas hands. His hands are hard, leathery, used, and sturdy. Kusaka has spent his life building bicycles by hand for Keirin racers. In the boom of fixed gears craziness,it is easy to dismiss these things as just another fad, it is easy to throw their names around, talk about which is better, a Kalavinka, or a Nagasawa, A RAP by Nemoto or a Kusaka built Vivalo. It is also easy to forget that these men, not only never asked for any of this hype, they for the most part want little to do with it. They are all for the most part our seniors by many generations, and seem to be the last of a dying breed of men that are fully dedicated to their craft.

These bicycles are not only bicycles. They are precious jewels.

Japan tradition.

http://www.wegotways.com/kinfolkbicycles/

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Author : Valentina Matelli

ROBERT THERRIEN: SELECTIONS FROM THE BOARD COLLECTION AND THE LACMA

Robert Therrien was born in Chicago in 1947, grew up in San Francisco and moved to Los Angeles in 1971, where he currently resides. He is known primarily as a sculptor, although he has also worked in painting, drawing, printmaking and photography.

For more than three decades, Therrien has explored the transformation of familiar forms. He is one of several artists represented in depth in the Broad Collection and the Los Angeles-based artist is no stranger to LACMA, where he had his early survey exhibition in 2000. Since that show, LACMA has acquired three sculptures as well as prints by Therrien, including, most recently, No Title (Black Beds), 1998, acquired in early 2011. This twisting, turning bed evokes the artist’s ability to craft materials in unexpected ways with engaging results. On its hind legs, the bed seems to take on an animal-like form, suggestive of a raging bear standing tall. Details »

Author : Marco Annunziata

ALINA SZAPOCZNIKOW

Alina Szapocznikow: Sculpture Undone, 1955–1972 is the first museum survey in the United States devoted to this Polish artist Alina Szapocznikow. Born in Kalisz  in 1926 to a Jewish medical family and  growing up in occupied Poland during World War II, Szapocznikow spent most of her adolescent years between Nazi ghettos and concentration camps.  When the ghettos were liquidated, Szapocznikow along with her mother was sent to concentration camps including Auschwitz, Bergen-Belsen and Terezín. The life  of Alina had been marked profoundly by those years and no wonder her oeuvre is all about the ephemeral condition of life and the human body. Her work oscillates between permanence and impermanence, from carvings in Carrara marble to the precarious assemblages of lips and breasts cast in polyester resin.

The exhibition at Hammer Los Angeles organized by Allegra Pesenti, will  bring to light  one of the most significant sculptors of the 20th century.  Approximately 60 sculptures and 50 works on paper, as well as a poignant group of photographic works, will demonstrate the tremendous range and scope of this incredible artist.

February 5, 2012 – April 29, 2012

http://hammer.ucla.edu/

 

Author : JeanLuc Ciquot

FIRE AND SUGAR IN GIAMBATTISTA VALLI’S COUTURE


A new year has just started and probably you welcomed it by wearing something red. It’s a typically Italian tradition, but this primary colour has a symbolical meaning in many different cultures. Red means love, passion, fire, heroism (as exemplified by Private Henry Fleming in The Red Badge of Courage by Stephen Crane), sin (think of Hester Prynne, the protagonist of The Scarlet Letter by Nathaniel Hathorne) and wedding (in Chinese culture).

From the point of view of fashion, red is surely a dramatic colour, able to give any outfit a twist. Valentino Garavani, the iconic Italian designer, created a unique shade of red for his most impressive creations and another Italian designer, Giambattista Valli, seems to be following his steps. Valentino’s obsession with this colour started after a journey to Spain (and a trip to the Opera House in Barcelona), but who knows where the same obsession started for Valli? The Roman designer presented his first haute couture show in Paris in July 2011 and included many red dresses in his collection, thus turning this colour yet again into something highly symbolical.
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Author : Teresa Cannatà